Jerusalem’s Latest Argument Over History Is About Fried Innards

Makam closed long ago, but Mr. Amiga's son Shimon, 34, now runs a gluten-free falafel joint on the premises. A sign on the wall bears the insignia of the Council for Conservation of Heritage Sites in Israel, which certifies the spot as the birthplace of "the famous meorav Yerushalmi."

But a rival steakhouse, which opened across the street in 1970, also claims to have created the Jerusalem mixed grill.

That steakhouse — called Hatzot, Hebrew for midnight — sports a homemade sign above the takeout window proclaiming it to be the home of "the original meorav Yerushalmi."

Still gritty in parts , the district has been gentrifying and now includes trendy bars, artisanal bakeries and gourmet restaurants. Modern twists like a seafood meorav have been turning up on menus around the country, and Hatzot has been offering a vegan version with mushrooms and tofu.

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Source: Jerusalem's Latest Argument Over History Is About Fried Innards